Shishapangma Expedition
Shishapangma Expedition is a life changing journey to one of the most straightforward yet isolated tallest peak in the world. At 8,027m, Shishapangama is the lowest (8,000m+) peak; ranking itself as fourteenth highest peak in the world.
Shishapangama is the last 8,000m peaks to be climbed; due to its location entirely within Tibet and the strict restriction policy imposed by Government of China and the Tibetan Autonomous region. Very little was known about the peak until it was opened for western climbers in 1978.
Though it is still unclear about the first ascent of Shishapangama Peak, the team of Chinese expedition led by Xu Jing in 2 May 1964 was recognized as the first summiteer of the peak.
Myths and Legends
The name Shishapnangma was derived from Standard Tibetan Language; meaning – Shisha “meat of an animal that died of natural causes” and Sbangma “malt dregs left over from brewing beer”. Legend has it that many years back a heavy snowfall killed numbers of animals at pasture and the only stuffs that the people living beneath the mountain got to eat was dead animals and the malt dregs left over from brewing beer. Subsequently, the peak was named Shishapangama.
On the other hand, the famous Geologist “Toni Hagen” refers Shisapangama as a “grassy plain” or “meadow” above a “comb” or a “range” in a Tibetan language.
In Sanskrit, The Shisapangama means Gosainthan – meaning “the place of the Saint” or “the abode of god”.
Shisapangma is possible to climb via northwest face and the north ridge; which are both standard commercial routes. The north route is less technical and less challenging which is also a commercial route.
The Summit expedition to Shishapangama from Base Camp:
Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp (5,600m):
We will set a base camp at Chinese Base Camp. We will stay at BC for few days until we get fully acclimatized and get acquainted with local environment. Here we can engage on pre-climb training which assist us to enhance the technical skills and proper way of using climbing gear like ice axe, ropes, harness, ascender, descender and more. A pony back transport will supply the needed stuffs to advanced base camp. Advance base camp is located at the snout of the glacier on the west side of the moraine. It offers a pleasant and levelled area to camp surrounded by prayer flags. Here we rest for few days and wait for good weather if it gets worse.
Many climbers spend 80 % of their time at Base Camp and advanced base camp to get familiarize with local environment and increase altitude adeptness.
Advanced Base Camp – Camp I (6,400m)
The climbing journey to Camp I initially goes over the moraine for several hours. On the way, we set a transitional camp and put on a friendly boots for glaciers. Crossing the glacier at 5,800m, we continue through some steep icy slope using fixed ropes to Camp I. We set a camp on a leveled moraine.
Camp I – Camp II (6,700m)
Today we will walk for 5 – 7 hours. The difficulty depends on the level of snow and wind. We climb steeply initially which later becomes somewhat gentle and finally we cross a flat glacier to reach Camp II. We use fixed ropes and other equipment whenever needed.
Camp II – Camp III (7,400m)
The 6 – 7 hours climb begin with the steep climb via snow and icy route. Climb slowly and get the assistance of your guide and equipment whenever needed. We use 150m of fixed line on 25 degree vertical slope. From here, we climb for 2 – 3 hours to a stair ridge which just below the summit ridge. A final ascend via snowy rocky field leads us to Col which is the Camp III.
Camp III – Shishapangma Summit
Today is the most awaited part of our entire journey. Today we start early at around 12:00 AM to summit the peak as early as possible.
From Camp III, we climb from 9 – 10 hours to conquer the peak. First, we climb gently to a wing at 7,400m and then continue ascending steeply (but technically less challenging) until the summit. First we get to snowy pinnacle which is the false central summit. Most climbers conclude their expedition here and do not attempt the snowy knife-edge ridge which is real summit (about 18 m higher than false summit) We take the help of ropes to cross the challenging part.
Once we get to the summit, we feel like that we conquer the world. We can get the mesmerizing views of Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and other peaks.
After some magical moments, we retrace our steps back to Camp II; followed by another descend back to Base Camp, the next day.
Why choose us for Shishapangama Expedition?
Here are the some top notch services that we include in our package but they are not limited to the followings:
- An experienced and knowledgeable mountaineering guide and climbing experts
- All the required mountaineering permits
- Reliable and high quality mountaineering gears like fixed ropes, tents, sleeping bag, mattress, oxygen cylinders and first aid kits
- Expert high altitude cooks, helpers and cooking equipment
- An experienced local porters
- A hassle free, safe and comfortable journey
