Shishapangma Expedition

49 Days days

Shishapangma Expedition is a life changing journey to one of the most straightforward yet isolated tallest peak in the world. At 8,027m, Shishapangama is the lowest (8,000m+) peak; ranking itself as fourteenth highest peak in the world.

Shishapangama is the last 8,000m peaks to be climbed; due to its location entirely within Tibet and the strict restriction policy imposed by Government of China and the Tibetan Autonomous region. Very little was known about the peak until it was opened for western climbers in 1978.

Though it is still unclear about the first ascent of Shishapangama Peak, the team of Chinese expedition led by Xu Jing in 2 May 1964 was recognized as the first summiteer of the peak.

Myths and Legends

The name Shishapnangma was derived from Standard Tibetan Language; meaning – Shisha “meat of an animal that died of natural causes” and Sbangma “malt dregs left over from brewing beer”. Legend has it that many years back a heavy snowfall killed numbers of animals at pasture and the only stuffs that the people living beneath the mountain got to eat was dead animals and the malt dregs left over from brewing beer. Subsequently, the peak was named Shishapangama.

On the other hand, the famous Geologist “Toni Hagen” refers Shisapangama as a “grassy plain” or “meadow” above a “comb” or a “range” in a Tibetan language.

In Sanskrit, The Shisapangama means Gosainthan – meaning “the place of the Saint” or “the abode of god”.

Shisapangma is possible to climb via northwest face and the north ridge; which are both standard commercial routes. The north route is less technical and less challenging which is also a commercial route.

The Summit expedition to Shishapangama from Base Camp:

Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp (5,600m):

We will set a base camp at Chinese Base Camp. We will stay at BC for few days until we get fully acclimatized and get acquainted with local environment. Here we can engage on pre-climb training which assist us to enhance the technical skills and proper way of using climbing gear like ice axe, ropes, harness, ascender, descender and more. A pony back transport will supply the needed stuffs to advanced base camp. Advance base camp is located at the snout of the glacier on the west side of the moraine. It offers a pleasant and levelled area to camp surrounded by prayer flags. Here we rest for few days and wait for good weather if it gets worse.

Many climbers spend 80 % of their time at Base Camp and advanced base camp to get familiarize with local environment and increase altitude adeptness.

Advanced Base Camp – Camp I (6,400m)

The climbing journey to Camp I initially goes over the moraine for several hours. On the way, we set a transitional camp and put on a friendly boots for glaciers. Crossing the glacier at 5,800m, we continue through some steep icy slope using fixed ropes to Camp I. We set a camp on a leveled moraine.

Camp I – Camp II (6,700m)

Today we will walk for 5 – 7 hours. The difficulty depends on the level of snow and wind. We climb steeply initially which later becomes somewhat gentle and finally we cross a flat glacier to reach Camp II. We use fixed ropes and other equipment whenever needed.

Camp II – Camp III (7,400m)

The 6 – 7 hours climb begin with the steep climb via snow and icy route. Climb slowly and get the assistance of your guide and equipment whenever needed. We use 150m of fixed line on 25 degree vertical slope. From here, we climb for 2 – 3 hours to a stair ridge which just below the summit ridge. A final ascend via snowy rocky field leads us to Col which is the Camp III.

Camp III – Shishapangma Summit

Today is the most awaited part of our entire journey. Today we start early at around 12:00 AM to summit the peak as early as possible.

From Camp III, we climb from 9 – 10 hours to conquer the peak. First, we climb gently to a wing at 7,400m and then continue ascending steeply (but technically less challenging) until the summit. First we get to snowy pinnacle which is the false central summit. Most climbers conclude their expedition here and do not attempt the snowy knife-edge ridge which is real summit (about 18 m higher than false summit) We take the help of ropes to cross the challenging part.

Once we get to the summit, we feel like that we conquer the world. We can get the mesmerizing views of Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu and other peaks.

After some magical moments, we retrace our steps back to Camp II; followed by another descend back to Base Camp, the next day.

Why choose us for Shishapangama Expedition?

Here are the some top notch services that we include in our package but they are not limited to the followings:

  • An experienced and knowledgeable mountaineering guide and climbing experts
  • All the required mountaineering permits
  • Reliable and high quality mountaineering gears like fixed ropes, tents, sleeping bag, mattress, oxygen cylinders and first aid kits
  • Expert high altitude cooks, helpers and cooking equipment
  • An experienced local porters
  • A hassle free, safe and comfortable journey

Details Itinerary

Day01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel

Upon your arrival in Kathmandu (Tribhuvan International Airport), our airport representative will receive you and transfer you to the designated hotel. Look for our company name in placard or display card.

Note: If you happen to arrive Kathmandu before 4 PM, the briefing about the expedition will be held in the same day at hotel lobby or at our office. Make sure that you ask every questions regarding the expedition.

Day02: Kathmandu valley sightseeing tour and Shisapangama Expedition Preparation

The very next morning, we will proceed for a full day sightseeing tour around Kathmandu valley. After breakfast, at around 8:00 Am, we will host a pre-trip meeting at your hotel lobby and introduce you to your trek/climbing leader.

After the pre-trip discussion and breakfast, we will start a sightseeing trip at 9:45 AM in the morning. We will provide you a city guide and private vehicle at your disposal. Today we will visit some revered UNESCO heritage sites listed below:


Pashupatinath is one of the most sacred Hindu temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is located about 5km east of central Kathmandu along the bank of holy Bagmati River. Non-Hindus are strictly prohibited to enter the main gate of temple; but you can clearly observe the temple and ongoing rituals from the eastern bank of the Bagmati River. Here you can also observe the cremation process of Hindu bodies.

Pashupatinath is a square two-tiered pagoda temple; built on a single tire plinth; which is famous for its spiritual power all over the world.


Boudhanath is one of the holiest Buddha stupa for Tibetan Buddhist in Kathmandu. Built in 5th century, this gigantic stupa has four pairs of eyes of Lord Buddha in four cardinal direction; which observes the wrong deeds of people. Here you will find a Buddhist pilgrim making a holy Kora about the stupa spinning the prayer wheels.


Swayambhunath; also called a monkey temple, is a hill stupa that overlooks the entire valley. It is believed that the stupa came in existence since around 500 CE. The main entrance of stupa has 365 stone steps which you need to negotiate to reach the main complex of stupa.

The rest of the day is spare for further exploration and some last-minute shopping in Thamel.

Overnight at hotel

Included Meals: Breakfast

Day03: Drive to Zangmu (2,240m) – 06 hours

After morning breakfast, we drive to Zangmu enjoying the incredible landscapes and great views of high Himalayan ranges. First 5 hours of winding drive takes us to Nepal – Tibet border and after border formalities, we drive for another one hour to Zangmu for overnight stay.

Overnight in Zangmu

Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Day04: Zangmu – Nyalam (3,660m) – 04 hours

Today we drive towards Nyalam crossing a bridge through gorge with stunning rhododendron, pine and oak forest and waterfalls. We drive beyond the lush vegetation and enter to Nyalam the start and end point of Tibetan Plateau which is surrounded by high hills and waterfals. Nyalam in local dialects means the “Hells Pass” or “The Gateway to Hell” because the road to Nyalam is so bad that many people call it the highway to hell. But it was before the road was built. The 35km journey takes about 04 hours to reach via snaky roads.

Day05: Rest day at Nyalam

Nyalam is the perfect spot for acclimatization. We stay active throughout the day: explore the village, climb high hills and sleep low. This helps us to acclimatize our body well at high altitude.

Overnight in Nyalam

Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Day06: Drive to Shishapangama Base Camp (4,900m/ 04 hours)

Today we start our day with the stunning views of sunrise over Tibetan plateau. We have enough time to capture the mesmerizing sunrise on our camera before continuing our drive.

After heartily breakfast, we drive to Shishapangama Base Camp which is nestled at 4,900m via arid landscapes with frequent switchbacks. Here we make a final plan and preparation for Shisapangama expedition.

Overnight in Shishapangama Base Camp

Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Day07 – 08: Rest at Base Camp

From Day 07 – 09, we rest at base camp to get properly acclimatized and get acquainted with local environmental circumstances. We get our equipment checked and re-pack our equipment.

Day09: Base Camp – Advance Base Camp (ABC) – 5,800m/ 4 hours

Today we leave base camp and climb towards Advanced Base Camp with unrivalled views of mountains lining on a border of Nepal and Tibet. We climb via rocky trial and sometimes walk on moraine to get to the ABC.

Overnight in Advanced Base Camp

Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner  

Day10 – 18: At Advanced Base Camp for acclimatization and preparation

A prefect is most important to summit the peak. So we stay at ABC for couple of days to wait for perfect weather. We also spend these days to acclimatize and prepare for summit bid to avoid any sort of altitude related sickness and other threats in course of ascend.

Our climbing guide and expert will get you involve in some climbing trainings which helps you to enhance your technical skills and teach you proper way of using climbing gear like ice axe, ropes, ascender, descender and more.

Overnight in Advanced Base Camp

Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Day19 – 34: Shishapangama Climbing Period

16 Days is allocated for Shishapangama Climbing. We only procced from one camp to another when the weather is fully trustable and clear. We have to wait for couple of days at camps so, prepare physically and mentally. We will climb to Camp I (6,400m), Camp II (6,700m), Camp III (7,400m) and finally to Shishapangama at 8,027m.

We have to use fixed rope most of time and oxygen cylinder from camp I to the summit and back to Camp I.

We spend some moments at summit and enjoy great views of Himalayan rage. Then we make a gradual descend back to Advanced Base Camp. Porong Ri, Pherephu Ri, Langtang Himal and numbers of other peaks are seen from the summit.

On the way to summit, we might face some significant challenges like extremely temperature and low atmospheric level.

Day35: Advanced Base Camp – Base Camp

Today we continue dropping down until base camp where rest of our crew will be waiting for us. Here we celebrate our successful victory to conquer the peak with Sherpa Veterans and guides.

Overnight in Base Camp

Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Day36: Clean up the Base Camp

It’s our duty to make the Himalaya clean. Every year thousands trekkers visit the Himalayas and leave piles of rubbish around it. Our small effort helps will really help reduce the pollution; so we spend our day cleaning up the leftover at the base camp.

Then we pack up our stuffs and prepare for return journey.

Day37: Drive back to Zhangmu – 6 hours

Today we drive back to Zhangmu via Nyalam from the Base camp. On the way, we enjoy the last view of Shisapangama that we conquered few days earlier.

Overnight in Zhagmu

Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Day38: Drive back to Kathmandu

Your Trip Leader will complete the entire visa formalities at the frontier in Zhangmu immigration. After getting the formalities done, we drive back to Kathmandu via Kodari Highway. The Journey back to Kathmandu brings you to Lushness and you feel like rejuvenated again. After 5 hours of drive with frequent switchbacks, we will finally reach Kathmandu. Once in Kathmandu, we drive back to the hotel and take a well-deserved rest at comfortable beddings.

Evening: Join a farewell dinner hosted by High Five Adventure to celebrate the successful completion of the trip.

Overnight in Kathmandu

Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

Day39: Free Day at Kathmandu/ Final Departure

It’s up to you whether you like to stay at Kathmandu or fly back to your home country.

If you wish to stay at Kathmandu, we can assist you to explore the remaining landmarks of Kathmandu which we have missed at Day02.

If you intend to leave for home country, our airport representative will drive you back to Tribhuvan International Airport right on scheduled time (3 hours prior the flight).


Cost Details

Cost Include

  • Airport/Hotel/Airport Pickup and Drop Services via private vehicle
  • Hotel Accommodation in Kathmandu in B & B basis
  • Guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu city with expert tour guide and private vehicle
  • Government license holder experienced, trekking and camping guide (professionally trained wilderness first aid & altitude sickness
  • An experienced local porter (2 trekkers: 1 porter)
  • An experienced high altitude cooks with helper
  • All the staffs salary, insurance, transportation and accommodation
  • All the ground transportation as per itinerary (Kathmandu – Zhangmu – Nyalam – Shisapangama Base Camp - Kathmandu)
  • Common climbing gear – Rope, ice bars, ice screws and snow bar
  • Full board meals (breakfast, Lunch &  Dinner) during the trek
  • Accommodation at hotel/lodge/camp during the trek
  • All camping accommodation for staff
  • Daily weather report services from Seattle
  • Tibet Entry Visa Fee
  • Climbing royalty and permits to climb Mt. Shisapangama
  • One experienced, trained, government licensed and 3 or more time summiteer climbing guide per person.
  • Medical consultation service at the base camp with the HRA clinic at the base camp
  • First aid medical kits for the group and the staff
  • Satellite phone for communication
  • Oxygen cylinder for each members
  • Gamov Bags for high altitude sickness
  • EPI cooking gas and stove in camp one, two and three

Cost Exclude

  • Lunch & Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (expect for welcome and farewell dinner)
  • Travel Insurance
  • Nepal entry visa fee and international flight
  • Personal nature expenses – any packed food/snacks, aerated drinks, energy drinks, mineral water, alcohol, ciggarattes, chocolate bars, laundry, phone calls and more
  • Clothing, personal medical kit and trekking gear
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Tips for guide and porter


Date & Depature

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