Manaslu Expedition
“Manaslu Expedition: An adventure on top world’s 8th highest Mt. Manaslu of awesome beauty”
Highlights:
- On top of the world with a classic climb on world 8th highest Mt. Manaslu
- Sweeping panorama view of dramatic landscapes and peaks of Mid-West Nepal
- An amazing journey with grand scenery on daily walks and climb of Manaslu
- Trek and climb within beautiful landscapes of high hills-valley and stunning peaks.
- Exploring Buddhist culture, traditional villages, and monasteries of Mid West Himalaya
Expedition at a Glance:
| Highest access: | 8,163m (26,763ft) |
|---|---|
| Duration: | 49 Days |
| Group Size: | 01 – 10 person |
| Co-ordinates: | 28032’58’’ N, 84033’43’’ |
| First summit: | Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu (Japanese team) in 1956 |
| Location: | Lamjung District, Nepal |
| Arrival On: | Kathmandu |
| Departure From: | Kathmandu |
| Grade: | 4+ |
| Accommodation: | Hotel/lodge/Camp |
| Meals: | B. L & D during the trek and climbing period and breakfast in Kathmandu |
| Best Season: | Spring (April and May) and autumn (October and November) |
Standing at 8,163m, Mt. Manaslu, located immediately next to Annapurna, is the world’s 8th highest peak in the world. Meaning “The Mountain of Spirit” in sacred Sanskrit dialects, the name Manaslu refers to an intellect or soul. It was first summit by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, memebers of a Japanese expedition in May 9, 1956.
Manaslu is a serrated wall of snow and ice soaring high in the sky. The incredible peak of Manaslu is buttressed by great ridges running roughly due east to west and north to south and many peaks rises from its narrow icy ridges. These ridges includes a host of peaks that stands at 6,000m – 8,000m.
Mt. Manaslu is technical and physically taxing peak, so each of climbers must have prior experience, excellent fitness and great adeptness at high altitude.
Manaslu Peak Expedition Route
Mt. Manaslu offers many climbing routes that leads us to the common summit and many of them have been used by legendary summiteers. However, we will use the standard and commercial route which was once used by Japanese expedition group in 1956 via northeast face.
First we walk along the Burigandaki Valley for several days high up to Samagoan – here we stay one more night for acclimatization. From here, we climb uphill via Birendra Tal to the base camp at 4,750m.
Camp 1 (5,700m/18,700ft) – 04 hours
Today we climb along the bamboo markers through incredible glacier to Camp 1. We use fixed ropes to cross crevasses and big gaps. We set a camp at 5,700m at the base of the north peak right above the glacier.
Camp 2 (6,400m/2,1000ft) – 05 hours
The climbing route to Camp 2 is quite technical. We will cross a giant icefall and snow covered crevasses. Follow the command of your guide strictly. Though the route is challenging, camp2 is nestled in the safest part of the route on a relatively plain area at 6,400m.
Camp 3 (6,800m/22,310ft) – 02 – 03 hours
Today we continue climbing high up to Camp 3 (6,800m) which is located beneath the col. We camp below the col to avoid the strong winds. The climb is quite easy and short; which offers us enough time to acclimatize and explore. Today the route don’t require to use ladders but there are some crevasses where you can jump to cross.
Camp 4 (7,500m/ 24, 606ft) – 04 – 05 hours
It is the last camp before the summit. Today we climb up via remaining glaciers and steep route of ice and snow. We use the proper gear as per the recommendation of our guide.
Camp 4 is often said a dead zone so we suggest you to take an extreme caution.
Summit (8,156m/ 26,759ft) and back to Camp 3 – 16 – 17 hours
Today is the day that we have been desperately waiting for. We start very early at around 1:00 AM. If everything goes as planned, we will summit the peak by 7:00 AM.
Just beneath the main peak, you will find another dummy peak. Crossing the peak and climbing via exposed ridge of 70m distance, we will reach the summit of Manaslu.
Initially, the climb is not difficult and technical but as we cross the dummy peak, it becomes steep to the summit.
We then descend back to camp 3 using ropes and other gears which takes 8 hours.
Best Time for Manaslu Expedition
Spring (April and May) and autumn (October and November) are the best of the year for Manaslu expedition. Though these seasons are favorable months, we still suggest you to get the clear insight of weather and snow conditions of the mountains which you are willing to climb.
Many climbers prefer spring and autumn for climbing expedition as this season is safe and success rate is high.
The snow begins to melt and it is easy to fix the ropes and other gear on the climbing route. Likewise, the visibility is high due to clear weather and the warm temperature makes your climb comfortable.
Brief Itinerary:
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu and transfer to the hotel
Day 02: Kathmandu valley sightseeing tour and Manaslu Expedition Preparation
Day 03: Drive from Kathmandu – Arughat (570m) – Soti Khola (730m) to begin Manaslu climbing expedition
Day 04: Soti Khola – Machha Khola (930m)
Day 05: Machha Khola – Jagat (1,370m)
Day 06: Jagat – Philim (1,570m)
Day 07: Philim – Deng (1,540m)
Day 08: Deng – Ghap (2,165m)
Day 09: Ghap – Lho (3,180m)
Day 10: Lho – Sama Goan (Ro) (3,525m)
Day 11: Rest and acclimatization day at Sama Goan
Day 12: Sama Goan – Manaslu Base Camp (4,750m)
Day 13 -40: Manaslu Expedition Climbing Period
Day 41: Trek to Sama Goan after the Manaslu summit expedition
Day 42 -46: Sama Goan – Arughat
Day 47: Drive back to Kathmandu
Day 48: Free Day at Kathmandu
Day 49: Final Departure
